Warajiya (Kyoto) – A Restaurant to Enjoy Eel Beyond the Usual Unadon
When you visit Kyoto (or the Kansai region in general), eel should be on your list of must-try foods. Outside Japan, eel is often served as grilled unagi in Kanto style, in which unagi is first steamed, then grilled, resulting in a tender texture. In contrast, Kansai-style unagi, prevalent in Kyoto, skips the steaming step and instead, the eel is grilled directly over charcoal. This process imparts a smoky aroma while creating a slightly firmer, crisper yet still succulent texture.
Among the eel places we have tried in Kyoto and nearby cities, Warajiya (わらじや) is the most memorable one as their menu offers beyond the familiar grilled eel rice bowl. If you are wondering which eel restaurants to visit in Kyoto, take a look at this restaurant. We stopped by for lunch after visiting Sanjusangendo, one of the most popular and impressive attractions in Kyoto which is within walking distance.
The restaurant said that they have been operating for hundreds of years in Kyoto. There seems to be different dining rooms in their traditional building, and we were led to a tatami room on the second floor with low tables and cushions for seating.
Warajiya’s specialties are eel hotpot (unabe) and eel porridge (uzousui), which we have not seen at other eel restaurants. Since we had never tried either dish before, we ordered a combo set of both unabe and uzousui, plus a traditional eel rice bowl. The menu isn’t extensive and though staff didn’t speak much English, they were friendly and ordering was easy and straightforward.
Our lunch began with a small appetizer and a plate of white grilled eel, which is salt grilled eel with no sauce. Each piece can be eaten with wasabi and sansho pepper. This preparation really highlighted the crisp exterior, smoky aroma, and delicate flavor of the eel, allowing its natural taste and texture to shine without being overpowered by any sauce.
Next, the staff brought out the eel hotpot. The unabe consisted of a light clear broth, pieces of grilled eel, wheat gluten, chopped leeks and noodles. The staff divided the hotpot contents into our bowls and reminded us to sprinkle sansho pepper for added fragrance and a mild kick. The hotpot had a very subtle and light flavor, simple yet umami.
Following the unabe was the eel porridge. A bubbling shallow pot of porridge with grilled eel, sliced shiitake mushrooms, carrots, burdock, beaten eggs and leeks was placed in front of us. The porridge was comforting and filling, with a soft, gentle flavor that brought all the ingredients together. Again, another generous sprinkle of sansho pepper should not be omitted. I found the porridge more satisfying than the hotpot, which felt like a light appetizer that set the stage for the heartier, more comforting dish.
Lastly, we sampled Warajiya’s eel rice bowl. Both the eel and rice were coated with a sweet-soy based sauce which made the dish flavorful yet a bit salty for us. Compared to the more unique unabe and uzousui, the eel rice bowl was not the highlight of our meal and wouldn’t be the reason for us to return. However, I can certainly see us coming back to enjoy the delicious porridge again, especially if we visit Kyoto during colder weather.
Even in Japan, eel is considered a premium item, so it is unlikely that a meal featuring eel will fall into a budget-friendly category. For us, as Asians, hotpots and rice porridge are some of the ultimate comfort foods. For those from Western countries, the hotpot and porridge may be less familiar compared to the more typical eel rice bowl (unadon). However, if you are up for trying something different while in Kyoto, the uzousui at Warajiya is well worth a try. Depending on your budget, you could add one or two more dishes from their menu as the portion is not large.
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