Sumiyoshi Taisha – A Must-See in Osaka for Cultural Lovers

Osaka may not be as famous for its temples and shrines as Kyoto, but Sumiyoshi Taisha is definitely worth visiting for its special architectural styles and cultural aspects. Sumiyoshi Taisha is an active place of worship where Japanese people come to perform various Shinto rituals, not a tourist-oriented shrine. It is a must-see in Osaka for those who want to learn more about Japan’s cultural and religious practices.

Nowadays, the shrine is completely landlocked but it is said that it once faced the sea in the past. If you visit the Osaka Museum of History (which is right across from Osaka Castle grounds), you will see this old painting depicting the scene of locals collecting clams near from the beach near the shrine, a tradition that took place in late spring in the past.

Upon entering the shrine grounds via the main entrance, you immediately see the iconic arched bridge, also known as Taiko-bashi (the drum bridge). This vibrant vermillion bridge is especially striking on clear days when its reflection over the water creates a beautiful scene. It is a popular spot for photography due to the unique shape and picturesque setting.

After crossing this steep bridge, pay attention to the temizu-sha (purification fountain) on the left. The water that fills the basin streams out of the mouth of a stone rabbit. Sumiyoshi Taisha has a special connection to rabbits, as it was founded on the day of the rabbit, in the month of the rabbit, and in the year of the rabbit. Because of this, you’ll find rabbit stones and symbols scattered throughout the shrine grounds.

The purification fountain is for visitors to perform a ritual cleansing to purify themselves before approaching the main shrine buildings. You can read more about it in my temple and shrine etiquette in Japan post.

Sumiyoshi Taisha has four main halls dedicated to the three Shinto deities of the sea and Empress Jingu. When you look at the official map of the shrine grounds, you will see these four buildings labeled as Dai-ichi Hongu, Dai-ni Hongu, Dai-san Hongu, and Dai-yon Hongu, which translate to Main Shrine #1, #2, #3, and #4 respectively. As you approach from the main entrance and cross the Sorihashi Bridge, you’ll first encounter Main Shrine #3 and #4, followed by #2 behind them, and finally #1 at the end.

The alignment of these shrines is quite unique. Main Shrines #1, #2, and #3 are arranged in a vertical line, while Main Shrine #4 is positioned horizontally next to Main Shrine #3. Some sources say this unusual placement resembles a fleet of sailing ships.

These main halls were constructed in the Sumiyoshi-zukuri style, one of Japan’s oldest native shrine architectures. This style is distinct for its simplicity and lack of external influences, such as those from China. The structures feature straight, sloped roofs without upward curving eaves. At the top of the roofs are crossed roof finials called chigi, which are particularly eye-catching and something we hadn’t seen at other shrines we visited in Japan.

At some point, a wide porch was added to the front of each main hall. These front porches have a different architectural style with curved roofs and more familiar ornamentation that can be seen in other shrines. I found this article that provides more detailed information about the architecture of these main halls.

Goshogozen is a sacred place behind the Main Shrine #1. This area is enclosed by stone fences and covered with pebbles beneath a cedar tree. Here, worshippers search for special pebbles with the characters: 五 (go – five), 大 (dai – large/big), and 力 (riki – power/force). These five great forces are Physical Strength, Intelligence, Financial Strength, Fortune, and Longevity. They say if someone finds all three stones, their wish may come true.

The stone torii next to Goshogozen area in the photo above is called Sumiyoshi torii. All the stone bars and pillars are straight with square ends. Additionally, the lower horizontal bar does not protrude beyond the pillars, unlike many other torii gates.

The precinct of Sumiyoshi Taisha is much larger than we expected. It’s quite pleasant to stroll along paths lined with cedar trees, flags and stone lanterns. These red flags seem to bear the names of donors or prayers as Sumiyoshi Taisha is also known as a place to pray for the prosperity of business.

In front of Nankun-sha, there is a purification fountain where water streams out of the mouth of a dragon. There’s also a sacred camphor tree which is said to be 1,000 years old. This tree is impressively huge, even more so than the camphor trees found on the grounds of Meiji Jingu I think.

Sumiyoshi Taisha offers goshuin (shrine stamps) and several beautifully designed goshuincho (stamp books). I bought one goshuincho with the arched bridge and chigi on the front cover. The other design features the bridge and rabbits. You’ll find the goshuin office shortly after crossing the bridge, before entering the area where the main shrines are.

Nankun-sha also has its own goshuin. I obtained a special embroidered goshuin here which is quite cute. I didn’t check if other sub-shrines also have their own stamps. If you want to learn more about collecting goshuin, check out my goshuin guide here.