Breakfast at Hyotei, a Three-Starred Restaurant in Kyoto

Hyotei (瓢亭) is one of Kyoto’s most historic restaurants, famous for its kaiseki cuisine and tea house roots. Located in Sakyo Ward near Nanzen-ji Temple and Keage Station, it has a history of over 400 years. The restaurant currently holds three Michelin stars and a rating of 3.9 on Tabelog.

We made our reservation at Hyotei annex building on TableCheck, priced at 5,445 yen per person. After our short walk, we found ourselves in front of the restaurant’s traditional entrance marked by a curtain with the signature gourd logo.

Our Breakfast at Hyotei

The dining area in the annex building overlooks a Japanese garden, creating a serene setting. However, the tables were quite close together, and the bulky chairs made seating less comfortable than expected. Before the meal, the staff served a hot cup of ume tea, which had a lightly sour and salty taste, preparing our palates for the food ahead.

The breakfast was a traditional Japanese one centered around porridge. The overall flavor profile was light and clean, designed to highlight the natural flavors of each ingredient. As East Asians, we found the meal enjoyable, but I’m unsure how well it would suit Western palates, especially those unfamiliar with the subtlety of Kyoto cuisine.

One aspect that could have enhanced the experience was the service. While the staff was efficient and polite with smiles in every interaction, you could tell that it didn’t feel warm or personal. Besides, there was no explanation of the dishes. Since we have had this type of meal multiple times in Japan, it wasn’t an issue for us to recognize the ingredients, but I certainly expected more from a restaurant like this.

Once we finished the small appetizers, staff brought out the porridge tray. The plain porridge was served in a black lacquered pot with a wooden lid. The accompaniments included kombu (kelp), soy-braised small fish, and pickles, adding umami and textural contrast to the porridge.

A small jar containing thickened dashi was provided, with staff instructing us to pour it over the porridge. Initially, I found the porridge slightly too thick though it was extremely well-cooked, with each grain of rice still intact. After adding the dashi, the consistency was perfect for my liking. The dashi also added more flavors to the simple porridge. It was my first time eating porridge served this way and we both found it to be enjoyable and interesting.

Worth It or Not

Overall, the breakfast was pretty filling, comforting and delicious. However, if you prefer strong flavors, you may not like it as much since the cooking style clearly emphasized on the subtle and refined flavors of Kyoto cuisine. I think the breakfast at Hyotei is a decent option if:

• You don’t consider spending 5,000 yen on breakfast a splurge. If it feels like a splurge, there’s a chance you may find it slightly underwhelming.
• You like delicate flavors and enjoy a filling breakfast. East Asians like us often prefer a hearty meal to start the day.
• You are staying nearby or plan to visit attractions in the area.

I’m glad we gave it a try and tasted some new dishes, but the service was the weak point. For a similarly elaborate Japanese breakfast, we had more engaging service at ryokan such as Madoka no Mori, one of the top ryokan in Hakone.

After having breakfast at Hyotei, you can visit nearby attractions, such as Nanzen-ji, Eikan-do, Lake Biwa Canal Museum or Heian Jingu. They are all great sites within walking distance from the restaurant.