Good Value Lunch at Hiramatsu Kodaiji, a Michelin-starred French restaurant in Gion

Hiramatsu Kodaiji is a French fine dining restaurant located in the historic Gion district of Kyoto (location). This establishment offers elegant dining with panoramic views of the iconic Yasaka Pagoda and Kyoto’s cityscape. At the time of writing, it has a rating of 3.62 on Tabelog and holds one Michelin star.

View of Yasaka Pagoda in Gion, Kyoto, from Hiramatsu Kodaiji Restaurant.

We booked a lunch course at Hiramatsu Kodaiji at the end of November as we planned to walk to Kiyomizu-dera for fall foliage viewing later in the afternoon. The reservation was made via TableCheck with plenty of availability a month in advance. Among all the methods to make restaurant reservations in Japan, TableCheck and Ikyu are my preferred ones.

Before booking, I browsed through Google reviews, and to be honest, I was not really impressed by the photos of the food. However, we still decided to make the reservation because:

  • The lunch course was very reasonably priced at 9,075 yen (including tax and service) for five courses. They also have a cheaper menu as well as a more expensive one. You can look up all the menus on the restaurant’s official website.
  • Hiramatsu is a well-regarded hospitality group in Japan, known for its fine dining establishments and commitment to quality. Besides restaurants in major cities across the country, they also operate several luxury hotels and resorts, including properties in popular onsen destinations like Hakone and Atami. We have stayed at The Hiramatsu Kyoto, an excellent boutique hotel with a historical atmosphere and impressive service.

From start to finish, the service was flawless. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted and escorted to our table, and at the end of our meal, we were also personally sent off. Everyone was highly professional while not too formal. The dining room was not huge with under 10 tables so service was very attentive.

In terms of the food, the restaurant showcased local seasonal ingredients through classic French techniques, delivering a well-executed meal. However while we really liked some of the dishes, some were not exactly memorable. Would I return? For lunch — absolutely. The quality of the food at this price point makes it an excellent value. However, for dinner, I would have to think much harder.

Amuse bouche at Restaurant Hiramatsu Kodaiji in Gion Kyoto.
Amuse bouche
a plate of appetizer with soft boiled egg and chestnut custard.
Soft-boiled egg with chestnuts appetizer

The meal started with a small amuse-bouche which I totally forgot what it was. The first real highlight was the soft-boiled egg with chestnuts appetizer which we really enjoyed. Presented in a autumnal arrangement with pinecones and maple leaves, it captured the season nicely. Inside the eggshell, the rich, golden yolk was topped with a velvety chestnut custard. Alongside, brioche cut into chestnut shapes added a playful touch. I think this dish was a very interesting way to use chestnuts.

Next came the lobster and scallop ravioli with a crustacean-based sauce and foam. It was a well-made dish, flavorful and enjoyable, but it lacked an element of surprise. The dish tasted exactly as expected, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but I tend to seek out new flavor combinations at fine-dining restaurants. I also preferred the filling of lobster and scallop to be a bit chunkier.

a plate of two lobster and scallop ravioli with sauce and foam.
Lobster and scallop ravioli

The fish course was my most favorite dish of the lunch, featuring lightly smoked and pan-fried sawara mackerel fillet with beurre blanc sauce. This dish exceeded my expectation as sawara wasn’t a premium fish, but the kitchen elevated it to the next level. The texture was perfect, pleasantly tender, flaky and juicy while the light smoking process deepened the mild taste of sawara.

a plate of sawara mackerel fillet with beurre blanc served at Restaurant Hiramatsu Kodaiji in Kyoto.
Sawara with beurre blanc sauce, braised Kujo negi and red miso tapenade

The beurre blanc sauce was very bright with a lot of acidity which complemented the fattiness of sawara beautifully. The braised Kyoto green onions was a wonderful supporting component, tying everything together. This dish was a perfect execution of technique and flavor. I wouldn’t change a thing about it and would love to have it again. The dish looked more beautiful in person than in my photo.

The last savory course was a ballotine of free-range chicken with confit chicken thigh. Every element was well-prepared — the ballotine was tender, the chicken thigh had a crisp, golden skin, and the mashed potatoes and autumn mushrooms rounded out the dish nicely. However, like the lobster and scallop ravioli, the taste was very predictable with no wow factor.

a plate of chicken ballotine with mashed potatoes, mushrooms and sauce.
Ballotine of chicken and chicken thighs with thyme jus and autumn mushrooms
a plate of pear dessert with caramel ice cream.
Pear tart with blackcurrant sauce and caramel ice cream

Our lunch ended on a high note with a delicious pear tart with blackcurrant sauce and caramel ice cream. The dessert had everything I look for — great balance of lightly sweet and tart flavors, caramel notes and contrasting textures. I think it was a perfect conclusion for this autumn-themed meal.

a cup of tea and a plate of small petite sweets on the dining table.
Tea and petite sweets after lunch

For those looking for a fine dining lunch that doesn’t require a big splurge in Gion, whether for a special occasion or simply to enjoy a meal with a stunning view, I would totally recommend Hiramatsu Kodaiji. The service was impeccable, and while not every dish was inspiring, the overall experience was refined and elegant. One small drawback was that the drink menu felt slightly overpriced to us.

Explore More

  • Saisho-in gate with vibrant fall foliage Kyoto.
  • Kinkaku-ji temple in Kyoto.
  • direct sea view from Mizuori room at Kinsuikan Miyajima ryokan.

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